How to Raise Armhole on Pattern: A Comprehensive Guide
Raising the armhole on a pattern is a common alteration that can be necessary for various reasons, such as adjusting the fit of a garment or accommodating a taller body. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced sewist, understanding the process of raising the armhole on a pattern can help you achieve a better fit and improve the overall look of your garment. In this article, we will provide a step-by-step guide on how to raise the armhole on a pattern, ensuring that your sewing projects turn out beautifully.
Understanding the Armhole
Before diving into the alteration process, it is essential to understand the basic components of the armhole. The armhole is the curved opening in a garment that allows for the arm to pass through. It is typically defined by a curved seam line, known as the armhole curve, which follows the natural shape of the arm. The armhole curve starts at the shoulder seam and ends at the underarm.
Materials and Tools Needed
To raise the armhole on a pattern, you will need the following materials and tools:
– The original pattern piece with the armhole you want to raise.
– A ruler or measuring tape.
– A fabric marker or chalk.
– A pair of sharp scissors.
– A tracing wheel or a ballpoint pen.
– A cutting mat.
Step-by-Step Guide to Raising the Armhole
1.
Mark the New Armhole Location:
– Measure the desired height for the new armhole location on the pattern piece. This can be done by taking the measurement from the shoulder seam to the point where you want the armhole to end.
– Use a fabric marker or chalk to mark the new armhole location on the pattern piece, making sure to mark the armhole curve.
2.
Draw the Armhole Curve:
– Starting from the new armhole location, draw a smooth curve following the natural shape of the arm. This curve should be parallel to the existing armhole curve.
– Ensure that the curve is symmetrical and follows the same shape as the original armhole curve.
3.
Adjust the Armhole Depth:
– Measure the depth of the original armhole at the shoulder seam and the new armhole location.
– Adjust the depth of the new armhole by adding or subtracting fabric as needed. This can be done by drawing a straight line from the shoulder seam to the new armhole location, ensuring that the depth is even along the entire curve.
4.
Trim and Neaten the Pattern:
– Use sharp scissors to trim away the excess fabric from the new armhole curve.
– Neaten the edges of the pattern piece by trimming off any uneven or jagged lines.
5.
Trace the Altered Pattern:
– Place the altered pattern piece on a cutting mat and use a tracing wheel or ballpoint pen to trace the new armhole curve onto a new pattern paper.
– Ensure that the traced pattern is accurate and that the new armhole curve is symmetrical.
6.
Adjust the Sleeves and Other Pattern Pieces:
– Adjust the sleeves and any other pattern pieces that are affected by the raised armhole. This may involve adding or subtracting length or adjusting the angle of the sleeve cap.
By following these steps, you can successfully raise the armhole on a pattern and achieve a better fit for your garment. Remember to take your time and make precise measurements to ensure the best results. Happy sewing!
